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Atlanta Fish Market Restaurant Review: This Buckhead classic slightly evokes the casual architecture of a lakeside fish restaurant somewhere in the low country. We prefer a small booth in the renovated bar area, the former Geechee Porch, close to the kitchen so we can watch the goings-on. Its bar also serves as a sushi bar. A selection of fresh bivalves from myriad sources makes a good starter, but if you want them cooked, we suggest the crisp fried version or the acceptable Rockefeller. Missing the always fresh soft-shell crabs when they’re in season would be a crime; they're prepared simply so their richness is not marred by distractions. Fish is wild-caught; not farm-raised. Skate wing meunière pairs with mashed spuds and green beans, or choose a fish from a list of offerings and decide how you want it prepared: grilled, blackened or sautéed. Try the sea bass Hong Kong-style, steamed with soy and sherry and seasoned with ginger and scallions. King crab legs, stone crab claws and crab cakes are first-rate; the mussels, though, seem small and tasteless. There are four steaks on the menu, and gluten-free options, too. Desserts are well-executed; make your choice the New Orleans bread pudding or, for something lighter, the house-made sorbet. AFM’s wine list features many by the glass that work well with the food, such as Albariño and Muscadet, although we miss a dry still rosé.