A follow-up to Blackbird, this highly seasonal (and always creative) restaurant is situated next door. With a name that’s French for “with,” it’s no surprise that you’ll eat in close proximity to other people---it’s part of the experience, after all. But, mind you, this was communal dining before it was the norm. There’s a wealth of tasty ideas---many Mediterranean-centered---coming from Paul Kahan’s kitchen, and it’s wise to pair choices with the first-rate wines. From the selection of small plates, zero in on hanger steak with broccoli spigarello, guanciale, celery, and tomato-and-strawberry salsa, and the pan-fried lake trout with pain perdu, lemon aïoli, cornichons and watercress. Wood-oven braised pork shoulder with garlic sausage, summer squash, tagliati pasta and basil pistou is topnotch, too. Then again, only a fool skips the whole roasted fish. When in the mood for a nosh, you can’t go wrong with thoughtful, global selections from the cheese cave.
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