Clover Grill Awards

Clover Grill Restaurant Review:

Along with his fine dining spot in the 8th arrondissement and Clover, chef Jean-François Piège owns this steakhouse near the Louvre museum. It comprises two dining rooms with a distinct décor: a lively one with a cocktail bar and various meats exposed behind a shelving unit and a more comfortable space with wallflowers. On the plates, rare flavors and the seasonings and cookings highlight topnotch ingredients. For starters, we recommend one of the signature dishes of Piège, a quasi souffléd and braised pizza with scallops, truffle, onions and lard, or for a lighter treat, the grilled Koshihikari rice from Japan with white wine marinated mackerel and horseradish. Beef is king, whether it’s the subtly chestnut and foie gras flavored and beechwood-smoked “noire de la Baltique” from Poland; served like the Australian Black Market as a rib steak with pommes grenaille; prime rib from Bavaria or Aquitaine; or the Prime Angus cut from Kansas. Choose among three sauces to go with the meat, the Sarawak peppered version from Malaysia, the béarnaise or the Bercy made with white wine deglazed shallots. Spit-cooked suckling lamb and Bresse poultry are also suggested. To finish off the meal, indulge in the grilled banana split or the churros with milk ice cream. To wash all that hearty fare down, a dozen wines are available by the glass, such as the biodynamic Cinsault Turbigo 2015.