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Bangkok City Restaurant Review: Bangkok City has quietly been serving some of the better Thai food in the city for more than two decades, in a corner of town that hasn’t yet seen much gentrification. All the Thai staples are here: pad thai is well-balanced and plated in a massive portion that practically guarantees leftovers, and tom kha gai is an irresistibly spicy, sour and sweet lemon grass-tinged coconut broth studded with mushrooms and chicken, though the meat tends toward the dry side. Thai beef salad is a perennial favorite, as is the jungle curry, a red curry sauce infused with Thai chilies and spices and basil, with eggplant and bamboo shoots. Those with less of a taste for spice should opt for the gang-ga-ree, a mild yellow curry made creamy with plenty of coconut milk, and toothsome potatoes and onions. Round out the meal with an order of sticky rice or tender steamed dumplings stuffed with ground pork and shrimp.