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Bistro VG Restaurant Review: Bistro VG buzzes with activity, and the noise level, enhanced by its rough-textured concrete and whitewashed walls, can impair table conversation when the place is packed --- a frequent condition. We like the small plates, many of them priced at or under $10. An assembly of these morsels easily makes a meal, especially if they include the grilled octopus with its tangle of peppers and potatoes, and the charcuterie, a generous presentation. We want to go back for the chicken livers, the duck confit, the salt-and-pepper fried squid and a host of other dishes. If the scallop carpaccio is offered, don’t miss it, with its mound of arugula and Meyer lemon-kissed olive oil. Wood-fired pizzas are another good reason to return, and pastas such as lamb shank ravioli with caramelized cipollini are well-designed for post-small-plates entrées. The hanger steak is first-rate, adorned with caramelized cauliflower and chimichurri at dinner. For dessert, try the light tiramisu, the crêpes with Meyer lemon filling and berries, and the pear tarte Tatin with house-made vanilla ice cream. The wine list is short and draws from both the old and new world, with many offered by the glass.