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Bocado Restaurant Review: Chef Adam Waller, who came to Bocado from its sister establishment, STG Trattoria, has revamped the menu, lending his own signature style. We like his creamy sunchoke soup, its texture enlivened with bits of crunchy sunchoke and cornbread croutons. A drizzle of olive oil adds a final fillip. Hungry for fried chicken but don't want a lot of it? Get a buttermilk fried thigh with apple radish salad and fennel honey. The famous burger is comprised of a double thin patty stacked with American cheese and house-made pickles; the meat is a blend of brisket and other fat-rich portions of beef, so it fairly bursts with juiciness at the first bite. Pair it with the garlic herb fries with ranch dressing. Lunch presents a raft of inventive sandwiches, while at dinner most of the offerings are small plates. Pastry chef Sarah Dodge’s turn at that Southern classic chess pie should make you snap to attention with a salute. The wine list provides good and adventurous choices that support much of the food, and there are many fine selections by the glass. In addition, there's a well-drawn brews line-up that runs the range of fine craft suds.