Bouche Restaurant Review: Sandwiched between Nob Hill and Union Square, Bouche is an unexpectedly charming respite from its well-trafficked neighborhood. Antiqued walls, low-lighting and heavy doses of barn wood define the bi-level French bistro. The first floor offers an urban experience --- counter seating only, with views onto busy Bush Street. Dining on the second level, however, with its exposed rafters and rustic furnishings, is like cozying up in the attic of a Provençal barn. Tables sport tops that originally served as wine racks. Chef Nicolas Borzee, formerly of Coi, creates a comforting French-Mediterranean menu. Try the velvety chestnut soup garnished with sage leaves fried in bacon fat. “Creamy rice” is a luscious savory pudding, prepared in a sour cream base and topped with crisped artichokes. Tender lamb cooked sous vide for 12 hours, served with rich onion marmalade and chickpea purée, offers complex flavors. White chocolate tart with pear and an almond genoise is the sweet of choice. Wines are focused on small producers from France and California.
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