Thanks to a chef’s hankering for her hometown fare, this New Orleans-style eatery has turned a seedy street corner into a foodie destination.
| Prepare to wait in line outside this diminutive breakfast, lunch and brunch spot set on an otherwise seedy corner near the Civic Center. The dining room features a spare, clean décor of mirrors, a subdued color scheme and simple wooden tables with seating for about 20. Chef Brenda Buenviaje (Sumi, Café Claude, Delessio) commands the tiny, semi-exhibition kitchen where she turns out a limited menu of French-Creole fare. New Orleans staples include fat, creamy biscuits that unfortunately sell out quickly, golden-brown beignets (including stuffed versions, such as with molten Ghirardelli chocolate), and savory options such as fried shrimp po’ boys and oyster-bacon hangtown fry. Specials change daily. Reservations are not accepted. |
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