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Buca Restaurant Review: Buca’s main dining room, complete with soaring three-story-high ceilings, exposed raw brick and iron beams, makes a dramatically hip statement. The smaller, more intimate, romantic wine bar is tucked down a hallway past the glass-enclosed meat-curing area. Dishes based on fresh market seasonal produce change constantly: daily menus are printed and date-stamped each morning. Always included are house-cured meats, such as sausages and prosciuttini, Tamshire pork that's rubbed with fennel and aged for 20 weeks. Farfalle is served with tender, slow-poached baby octopus, fresh Italian artichokes and chilies. Orecchiette arrives specked with testa, pork sausage made with pig ears, cheek and tongue. Deep-fried (fritti) dishes, such as the lamb’s brain, make good use of rarely-seen ingredients. Thin-crust, Roman-style pizzas are another option, as are assorted pasta dishes. Save room for the desserts and gelato --- the star of the show is crispy cannoli rolled around dark chocolate cream. The Italian wine list has over 250 well-chosen labels; there is a first-rate offering of grappa as well.