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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Descours Restaurant Review: Though the food is a champion of the local French movement, Café Descours beats other French continental places in another very important area---price. All of Café Descours entrées fall well under $20, but that's just part of the charm of this neighborhood bistro, next to Patisserie Descours, which is also owned by beloved pastry chef Marilyn Descours and her husband, Luc. Some of the bakery's patrons have been immortalized on the giant wall mural in the café, and all are treated like royalty by Luc, who works the dining room every night. Winning starters are the Gulf Coast crab cakes, chock full of lightly seasoned crabmeat; escargots, wrapped in puff pastry; and the classic French onion soup, kissed with the distinct sweetness of vermouth. Palate-pleasing entrées include the top-selling tender roast duck, glazed with green peppercorn sauce; the sautéed chicken Française, comfort food at its best with a barely recognizable lemon butter sauce and a puddle of potatoes; and the fresh fish of the day, grilled in citrus pistachio butter. But caution-don't get so stuffed you consider skipping Marilyn's desserts. The popular peach crisp topped with house-made vanilla bean ice cream and the buttery croissant bread pudding ladled with vanilla cream sauce will have you scraping every last morsel from the tiny casserole dishes. Some are perplexed by the lack of dessert design, with nary a dabbling of coulis, especially given Marilyn's renowned wedding cake artistry. But it was oddly comforting to visit a place so secure in the authenticity of its food and the warmth of its hospitality that it can laugh in the face of fads.