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Cafe L'Europe Restaurant Review: Among Palm Beach restaurateurs, proprietor Norbert Goldner ranks as an icon, pleasing the most haute for more than 20 years. Café L'Europe's tall arched windows, beveled glass and miles of elegant fabrics provide a plush dining backdrop. There's a caviar bar and the restaurant's wine room houses 1,600 bottles of wine, plus 100 bottles and 75 magnums of Champagne. Leave room for your meal, though. Try salmon tartare with vine-ripened tomatoes, served simply with thinly-sliced fennel, or crispy sweetbreads with mixed vegetables, poached pear and mustard sauce. Traditional rack of lamb comes with a potato strudel, wienerschnitzel with spätzle and red cabbage; roast duckling is served with sweet-and-sour sauce and mini bok choy. Sea bass is steamed en papillotte with spinach, zucchini, roasted garlic, fingerling potatoes, dill and tomatoes. A pianist nightly provides a soft background, while dancers enjoy a jazz quartet on Friday and Saturday nights. Reservations are a must.