 Another concept of the creative minds behind the Il Fornaio trattoria---bakeries that began in the San Francisco Bay area and spread across California and Nevada---this eatery presents a Venetian menu served beside the ersatz Grand Canal and St. Marks Square of The Venetian’s indoor re-creation of Italy. The view from its 300-seat patio includes the square's lively shows. The open kitchen, with a marble counter and big-flame pizza oven, dominates the back of the restaurant, designed for cozy dining. A winding staircase takes guests to a mezzanine with a plush reception room, a sparkling marble-topped bar, five rooms to accommodate private parties, and views of the shops and square below. Among starters, we like the polenta squares with six toppings---spicy sausage, shrimp, smoked salmon, asparagus and Gorgonzola---and porcini mushrooms with white truffle oil. Try the calzone filled with mozzarella, mushrooms, ricotta, ham and tomato sauce. The risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, brandy and black squid ink is a winner. Sink your teeth into the lamb shank braised in Sangiovese with vegetables and herbs. Save room for the Treviso-style tiramisu and the chilled zabaglione with baicoli cookies, fresh berries, Bellini sorbet and whipped cream.
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