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The Capital Grille Restaurant Review: Expect high energy at this corporate steakhouse, where rich woods and oil paintings collide with crisp black booths, geometric light fixtures and an exhibition kitchen to create a cluttered but classy atmosphere that smells of old money and new. By mid-afternoon, the Grille's bar is jammed with movers and shakers, chatting up clients via cell phone or wooing them over martinis. Frankly, the steaks, dry-aged on the premises, aren't half as interesting as the customers who eat them. Nevertheless, there are reasons to give The Capital Grille a whirl, and the wine list would be one of them. Appetizers of smoked Norwegian salmon and pan-fried calamari with hot cherry peppers are good too, as is lunchtime's fat cheeseburger. And if you think flourless chocolate cake is a been-there, ate-that situation, you haven't tried The Capital Grille's intense espresso rendition.