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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Centre Street Cafe Restaurant Review: The two dozen seats at Centre Street Café turn over like hotcakes. With each turn comes a different face: hippies, retirees, yuppies, artists, students. They're all part of what makes Jamaica Plain the closest thing Boston will ever have to Berkeley, California. The liberal spirit of the place plays out in organic foodstuffs prepared with verve and honesty (think polenta fries with poblano dip and baked goat cheese topped with basil pesto). Vegetables, as you'd expect, figure prominently, even in the meat-based dishes. Roast chicken isn't here for fussy eaters --- it's all crispy, juicy goodness, paired with mashed potatoes and wilted greens. Indian, Middle Eastern and Mexican influences come in the form of curry, couscous, corn tortillas and one-pot meals (sesame peanut noodles and Bombay curry stir-fry). Come weekends, the Southwestern-tinged brunches are a neighborhood institution. There's often a line outside, but bantering with your fellow table-seekers can be half the fun.