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Chez Fonfon Restaurant Review: An array of pastries greets diners near the entrance to Chez Fonfon. A wall of wine at the back hints at other pleasures to pursue. But the well prepared bistro cuisine is no less tempting here. Moules et frites, croque monsieur and steak tartare are classic fare. The hamburger Fonfon vies for the best in town, topped with melted Comté and served with crispy matchstick fries and crunchy cornichons. This is Frank Stitt's third restaurant, adjacent to his Highlands Bar & Grill, but the simpler menu does not mean any less attention to detail. We suggest country pâté with pork, ham, foie gras and pistachios; Basque-style omelet with peppers and chorizo; or trout with brown butter, capers and Brabant potatoes. Dessert temptations include a pear almond tart, coconut cake and chocolate pot de crème. The wine list is well selected and reasonably priced; wine-lovers may choose their own flight of three two-ounce pours. In good weather, adjourn to the back patio with a pastis to play boule.