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Chez Fonfon Restaurant Review: Diners may fantasize that they’ve arrived in France as they enter this popular Southside bistro with sunny yellow-toned walls. From the pastries display to the shelves of wine at the back, everything hints of the pleasures to pursue. Moules et frites, croque monsieur and steak tartare are classic fare. The hamburger Fonfon vies for the best in town, topped with melted Comté and served with crispy matchstick fries and crunchy cornichons. This is Frank Stitt's third restaurant, adjacent to his Highlands Bar & Grill, but the simpler menu does not mean any less attention to detail. The charcuterie platter is special and includes a pâté de campagne that takes five days to prepare, filled with foie gras, pistachios, bacon, pork belly and shoulder, chicken livers, ham, herbs, spices, bourbon and brandy. Do consider the braised beef cheeks with céleri root rémoulade or any of the daily specials. Pear and almond tart glazed with a red wine syrup makes a sweet finale. The wine list is well selected and reasonably priced; wine-lovers may choose their own flight of three two-ounce pours. In good weather, adjourn to the back patio with a pastis to play boule. A late-night special is served after 9 p.m. These have included a mushroom omelet with a glass of Beaujolais and the steak tartare with crusty grilled bread plus a cold Kronenbourg 1664 lager.