 Chilam Balam Restaurant Review: Its name may come from an ancient Mayan text filled with foreboding --- don’t ask; it’s complicated --- but there’s nothing gloomy going on at Lakeview’s Chilam Balam. First, there’s the cheery vibe (not an easy feat in a small basement location) that features pillow-topped benches, brightly colored walls and whimsical Mexican folk art. Then, there’s the friendly and informed service. But most important is the flavorful Mexican food. Although chef Chuy Valencia has moved on, the restaurant forges on with Natalie Oswald --- former pastry and sous chef --- in the kitchen. Focusing on farm-fresh ingredients from local purveyors, this BYOB (there are handcrafted mixers for sangría and margaritas) features a combination of small and large plates, including shiitake empanadas, veal sweetbread tinga and squash crêpes with poblano cream. The tortillas? Made from scratch. Ditto the chorizo and moles. Expect the menu to change often, but if the hibiscus flan with vanilla-lime ice cream and candied pepitas is available, get it.
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