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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES Chopstix Restaurant Review: Soft piano music, pink linen, crisp service and well-executed Hong Kong delicacies place this Chinese restaurant more than a few rungs above the rest. Common Chinese dishes are fresher and better here, but we suggest swinging out from the mainstream. The sweetbreads, lobster and daily Hong Kong-style delicacies are always reliable. Ask for the salt and pepper crayfish---even if it's not on the menu, they may oblige. Try the special rice, delicately steamed inside a lotus leaf, which imparts a pleasant, organic taste. Cold New York-style noodles with a spicy peanut sauce, black pepper oysters, salt-and-pepper wok-fried calamari, roasted duck ravioli and soft-shell crab (in season) also are among the delectable dishes. Take a gang of friends and share, as it's the best way to savor this distinctive fare. Dishes come and go and the menu changes from time to time, but the quality and consistency never vary. New dishes include mandarin orange shrimp with Grand Marnier sauce, pan-seared sea bass with spicy Szechuan chili sauce, whole snapper fried crisp with sweet-and-sour ginger scallion sauce. For dessert, ice creams and mango and tangerine sorbets are lovely. The wine list is a perpetual frustration, a collection of worthy wines that do nothing to support this lovely food. If only the delightful chef-owner Philip Chan would make some effort to choose wines that complimented this superb food, life at Chopsticks would take on a whole new meaning.