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Cibo e Beve Restaurant Review: Growing up on Long Island, chef Linda Harrell became familiar with the sort of Italian fare that no one in Italy actually eats. However, it’s a splendid offshoot of the original cuisine when prepared correctly. One such dish is the oysters oreganata, buttery and aromatic and topped with a bit of Nueske's bacon. Another is the charred octopus, the sweet meat of its tentacles tangled with cherry tomatoes and balsamic vinegar. Sweet potatoes are smoked before being puréed into a luxurious bisque. Harrell's American take on risotto begins with the heritage Carolina Gold rice and blends it with rock shrimp, cheddar and tasso ham, baked like a casserole. Halibut on sautéed spinach is compellingly fresh. Fried chicken is available on Sunday nights. Pizzas are baked in a dedicated pizza oven --- the wood pile overhead isn't just for decoration. Tiramisu makes an ideal conclusion, but don't pass up the powdered sugar-dusted donuts or the house-made gelato. We like the mostly Italian wine list, pared down from the restaurant’s earlier days but still offering very fine choices. Try the Lenotti Bardolino with much of the food.