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Cibo e Beve Restaurant Review: Chef Linda Harrell grew up in New York, savoring the sort of Italian fare that no one in Italy actually eats but that's a splendid descendent of the original cuisine when prepared correctly. One such dish is the clams oregonata appearing on the small plates menu. Another is a glorious salad of crisply sautéed red cabbage chiffonade bedecked with Gorgonzola and crispy pancetta. Rigatoni with Gorgonzola dolce and pistachio cream is a study in richness. Or savor the lump crab meat adorning the farfalle along with shallots and heirloom tomatoes. Harrell's take on the Italian American standard veal Marsala uses pasture-fed veal and mushrooms anointed by a light Marsala-kissed reduction that barely glazes the plate. Pizzas baked in a dedicated pizza oven --- that wood pile overhead isn't just for decoration --- also are available. Tiramisu makes an ideal conclusion, although don't pass up the crescent-shaped lemon cookies. The wine list focuses on Italian choices, with many by the glass, and staff has a good sense of what to pair with these dishes. Trust them.