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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED City Cellar Restaurant Review: A kid-friendly wine bar? Why not? In the growing “casual fine dining” genre, this stylish yet comfortable hangout, part of a burgeoning national chain, offers globally-influenced fare whose appeal is wide, if not deep---accessible to all, scary to none. In the bar area, an imposing floor-to-ceiling glassed-in wine rack, holding a selection of about 500 wines (more than 40 available by the glass or in half-glass tasting “flights”), is a major draw for the Gables’ party-minded young professionals. Families, couples, and any diners wishing to hear themselves think tend to opt for the 240-seat dining room, where plush banquettes and carpeting somewhat soak up the roar of the crowds. The eclectic East-West (mostly West) fare consists largely of light contemporary dishes at lunch: elegant bar-fly finger food (roasted red pepper hummus with grilled flatbread, a fruit and cheese platter), brick-oven pizzas, entrée-size salads with varied international accents, and sandwiches with creative touches, such as grilled chicken on country bread with walnut and Gorgonzola butter. The dinner menu adds about a dozen-and-a-half fish, meat, poultry and pasta entrées---hefty portions, at prices to match. Even lunchers should prepare to pay for the upscale ambience; sandwiches and salads average two or three dollars more than equivalent items elsewhere.