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Club Gascon Restaurant Review: The chef Pascal Aussignac has created a small corner of France in Smithfield. Club Gascon came first in 1998, followed by Cellar Gascon (a glorious wine bar) and the gourmet bistro and deli Le Comptoir Gascon. Le Cercle is part of the group, but in Chelsea, and Aussignac now also has Le Comptoir Gascon in Westfield Shopping Centre. Club Gascon remains one of London’s top venues, offering originality and outstanding cooking. It's a joy to find somewhere devoted to the rich, earthy regional delicacies for which Gascony is famous. The menu is not structured conventionally but is divided into main ingredients. Who could resist duck carpaccio with truffle and crispy artichoke; a smoked eel cassoulet with pearl barley and mullet roe shavings; or venison loin with sweet artichoke, violet and blueberries? Chips cooked in duck fat can be outrageously good. Another attraction is the delightful setting just off Smithfield meat market. With marble walls, a silver ceiling, simple furnishings and some huge and striking flower arrangements, it's a beguiling place. Wines are mostly resolutely regional and often unusually powerful reds. 3-course lunch £28, set 5-course meal £42 (£65 with wine).