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Colterra Restaurant Review: The tiny town of Niwot, just east of Boulder, is no culinary destination, but this chef-driven New American restaurant has long stood as an exception to the rule. The rough-hewn woodwork of the rustic old home it occupies stands in charming contrast to starched white tablecloths, a snazzy bar area and contemporary artwork; huge old shade trees set the stage for a garden patio regulars covet in warm weather. Reflecting the vision of owner Bradford Heap, executive chef Michael Drazsnzak's dishes involve homegrown produce, locally raised meats and more. Salads, soups and pastas thus burst with the flavors of the season, be it fava bean bisque or linguine tossed with carrots, Brussels sprouts and butternut squash; Colorado Wagyu also enjoys pride of place on the menu, whether grilled as a centerpiece filet or braised and stuffed into cannelloni with Hazel Dell mushrooms. (Afterward, one daily changing, sampler-size sweet on the dessert menu proves a welcome option.) Meanwhile, the beers are mostly local, the wines organic and/or sustainable, and cocktails with house-made hopped-grapefruit or sarsaparilla bitters just plain fun.