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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Commissary Restaurant Review: The Commissary serves gourmet burgers in a dozen varieties, along with salads and snappy sides. The kitchen employs an avant-garde technique to cook the burgers: first steaming them in a C-Vap machine until they reach 140 degrees, then finishing them with a quick sear on a grill. The result: a burger that's beautifully red across the center, with a dark, caramelized crust. High-end toppings include arugula, poblano peppers, avocado, and even a sunny-side duck egg, and there are burgers made from lamb, pork, chicken and crab. But beef is the best. (Avoid the sloppy black bean veggie burger.) The Magic Burger with cheddar and bacon is the classic, served on a toasted English muffin. The wittiest of the sides are the sweet potato "tots" --- sweet potato bullets with a sesame-seed crust. Don't overlook the salads, whether watercress with goat cheese or arugula sprinkled with fava beans. The wine program, overseen by former Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek sommelier Scott Barber, includes a by-the-glass "on tap" from Texas' Kiepersol Estates.