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Cosmopolitan Restaurant Review: Cosmopolitan's long dining room, romantic and formal, showcases white napery, sparkling flatware and stemware, subdued lighting and panoramic mountain views. Owner-chef Chad Scothorn changes the menu weekly, melding Southwestern, Northeastern, Asian, Italian and French influences into fine contemporary American cuisine with eclectic twists. Fresh, natural ingredients are assembled into picture-perfect presentations. Starters might range from lobster cake with avocado gazpacho to the pizza du jour to a salmon nori roll with ponzu dipping sauce. Expect generously portioned main courses featuring Niman Ranch beef and pork, Colorado or New Zealand lamb, Alaskan halibut, wild salmon and natural chicken. For something different, dig into yak from a ranch in nearby Montrose, which might come in the form of a grilled loin in a silky béarnaise sauce or as a rib-eye with green peppercorn sauce. Desserts include house-made ice cream and sorbets, and molten chocolate cake. Experience Cosmo's wine selection up close and personal by booking The Tasting Cellar, where walls lined with 2,000 bottles complement a five-course tasting menu that changes nightly.