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Cosmos Restaurant Review: At Loews Minneapolis Hotel’s Cosmos, the adventurous, modern cooking is typified by topnotch ingredients and bold colors and flavors. Seafood highlights include a fennel pollen-crusted diver scallop and pan-seared crab cakes enlivened with habanero-pineapple salsa and vanilla beurre blanc. Entrées are all prepared with panache and entice adventurous diners by way of bison tenderloin carpaccio while nodding to Cosmos’ Minnesota roots with Swedish meatballs, naturally. A slow-poached artichoke heart with sweet potato gnocchi properly seduces vegetarians, often ignored in fine dining establishments. The dessert to target is the Cosmos Globe, a seasonal fruit sorbet-filled chocolate orb that melts tableside as a rich dark chocolate sauce is poured over it. The seamless service is a tailor-made fit for the room; the wine list has true ambition; and the cocktails are fun and sassy. We’re partial to the Brazilian Rose, which pairs cachaça with guava purée and Cointreau.