* Click here for rating key
Cosmos Restaurant Review: Don't let the building's bland exterior fool you. Walking into the Graves 601 Hotel's ultra-modern lobby aesthetically transports us to New York City without having to set foot on a plane. Yet don’t mistake this stylish hotel and equally chic restaurant for being just another arty bastion of minimalism: its contemporary vibe manages to be sleek---not slick---and utterly comfortable. Chef Håkan Lundberg’s adventurous, modern cooking reflects the surroundings, typified by topnotch ingredients, bold colors and flavors and the latest techniques in molecular gastronomy. Seafood highlights include a fennel pollen-crusted diver scallop and pan-seared crab cakes enlivened with habanero-pineapple salsa and vanilla beurre blanc. Entrées are all prepared with panache and entice adventurous diners by way of bison tenderloin carpaccio while nodding to Cosmos’ Minnesota roots with Swedish meatballs, naturally. A slow-poached artichoke heart with sweet potato gnocchi properly seduces vegetarians, often ignored in fine dining establishments. The dessert to target is the Cosmos Globe, a seasonal fruit sorbet-filled chocolate orb that melts tableside as a rich dark chocolate sauce is poured over it. The seamless service is a tailor-made fit for the room; the wine list has true ambition; and the cocktails are fun and sassy. We’re partial to the Brazilian Rose, which pairs cachaça with guava purée and Cointreau.