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The Counter Restaurant Review: Mostly found west of the Mississippi River---especially California---and in a few locations abroad, The Counter is a novel concept in burger presentation. Some of the offerings are well executed, while others leave us puzzled. Four dollars and fifty cents for a sparse scattering of fried pickles with a pickle-killing apricot sauce is a classic example. But the sweet potato fries are among the best we’ve tasted. We also like being able to order a burger in any of three different sizes---one-third pound, two-thirds pound and full pound---and being able to order it rare without getting an argument. Shakes are pretty good, too. Other pluses: Burgers come in chicken, turkey and veggie (the latter vegan). We also recommend the grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich. Multigrain buns are an option, unless they’re out of them as was the case during our visit.