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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Dogwood Restaurant Review: The Dogwood restaurant is good to the earth --- seasonal and sustainable foodstuffs are preferred --- as well as to local farmers and small-scale, fine-food artisans. It’s good to the community, running an apprenticeship program that trains struggling Baltimoreans for professional careers. It’s also good to its patrons, introducing nightly specials, casual fare, and small plates to help keep things affordable. Happily, it’s just as good for your taste buds. Chef Galen Sampson, who owns the place with his activist wife, Bridget, used to be top toque at Hampton’s, once Baltimore’s leading fine-dining palace. The Dogwood combines the urbane and the earthy in its informal yet knowledgeable service and in such dishes as grilled whole rainbow trout with a four-grain stuffing, and Moroccan spiced lamb baked in phyllo. Vegetarian choices are always offered. Desserts range from carrot cake to a seasonal crème brûlée. For a special treat, ask the chef to arrange a five-course tasting menu just for you. In keeping with the bountiful harvest theme, the portions are generous, and the plates, like the exuberantly painted walls, are as colorful as can be.