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D'Raymonds Restaurant Review: D’Raymonds is a cozy bastion of old-style Italian-American décor---dark wood, red accents, black banquettes---kept on track by waitstaff in crisp black-and-white attire armed with a thorough knowledge of the menu and the regular customers. Second-generation chef-owner Gregory Crodelle turns out dishes ranging from homemade pastas, Parms and fresh seafood to such elevated treats as scallope di vitello carne di grancio (veal filled with fresh jumbo lump crab meat, with vodka cream sauce, fresh tomatoes and scallions) and the Genovese specialty fettuccine con lumache Stafano (ribbon noodles with snails, fresh basil, crumbled sausage and anisette). Desserts are of the tiramisu/tartufo variety, but the complimentary fried dough is the best sweet there. The 60-label wine list is heavily Italian and a bit pricey.