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Duende

468 19th St. (Telegraph Ave.) Send to Phone
510-893-0174 | Menu
The bold tastes of Spain meet upstart East Bay innovation.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Restaurant: Dinner Wed.-Mon.; Bodega: Breakfast & Lunch Fri.
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Duende Restaurant Review

: Chef Paul Canales, formerly of Oliveto, drew upon his father's Catalan heritage to create tripartite Duende: a popular, darkly lit dinner-only restaurant serving Iberian classics (fragrant paella, hefty albóndigas) and innovations (goat's milk cheese brûlée, sunchoke-stuffed canalones); an airy Friday-only bodega offering pastries, Ici ice cream and Verve coffee all day and restaurant food by night; and a jumpin' upstairs jazz club. Echoes of Italy, Morocco, Turkey and Spain's other sunny, sea-bound neighbors pervade such pintxos (small dishes) as saffron-kissed swordfish escabèche and plump, tender-crisp buñuelos (shrimp-mango donuts). Earthy dishes include sweet botifarra sausages and pebrots farcits (lamb-and-currant-stuffed piquillos). Canales isn't offal-phobic: his frequently shifting menus always include pork trotters, cheeks, tongues and ears, lending an "I dare you" aspect to dining here. Along with an extensive wine list (tastings are offered in the bodega) that is an education in itself, exotic cocktails include the Buried Mirror, made with mezcal, Oloroso sherry and pineapple gomme syrup. Authenticity rings through even to the tiniest touches: Meyer lemon marmalade atop rabbit pâté; Mahón cheese with smooth, fruity membrillo; blood oranges flanking ultra-light flan.

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