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Duende

468 19th St. (Telegraph Ave.) Send to Phone
510-893-0174 | Menu
The bold tastes of Spain meet upstart East Bay innovation.

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Wed.-Mon.
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Duende, Oakland, CA

Duende Restaurant Review

: Chef Paul Canales, formerly of Oliveto, drew upon his father's Catalan heritage to create Duende, a popular, darkly lit restaurant serving Iberian classics (fragrant paella, hefty albóndigas) and innovations (goat's milk cheese brûlée, sunchoke-stuffed canalones), with an adjacent bodega featuring, among other treats, Spanish wines for sale. Echoes of Italy, Morocco, Turkey and Spain's other sunny, sea-bound neighbors pervade such pintxos (small plates) as saffron-kissed swordfish escabèche and plump, tender-crisp buñuelos (shrimp-mango donuts). Earthy dishes include sweet botifarra sausages and pebrots farcits (lamb-and-currant-stuffed piquillos). Canales isn't offal-phobic: his frequently shifting menus always include pork trotters, cheeks, tongues and ears, lending an "I dare you" aspect to dining here. Authenticity rings through even to the tiniest touches: Meyer lemon marmalade atop rabbit pâté; Mahón cheese with smooth, fruity membrillo; blood oranges flanking ultra-light flan. Along with an extensive wine list that is an education in itself, exotic cocktails include the Buried Mirror, made with mezcal, Oloroso sherry and pineapple gomme syrup. Occasional lunch and other pop-up events are held in the bodega; call to inquire.
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