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Eating House

804 Ponce de Leon Blvd. (SW Eighth St.) Send to Phone
305-448-6524 | Menu
Bringing trend-setting cuisine to Coral Gables, an exciting young Miami-born mad scientist chef who really plays with his food.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Dinner Tues.-Sat., Brunch Sun.
Open late Fri.-Sat.

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Eating House Restaurant Review

: By his own admission, Miami native Giorgio Rapicavoli (the first Miami “Chopped” champion) was once one of those prodigies who thought he “knew it all.” Then an invite to Slow Food’s Terra Madre in Italy, where he worked with Alice Waters and Ferran Adrià, changed how he thought about food reflecting its land and culture. The result: Eating House, which began as a pop-up and is now permanent. Indeed, South Florida was no Berkeley or Barcelona in regard to food culture or terroir when Rapicavoli was growing up. Only sheer mad-chef skills explains the playful and very personal creations he crafts, influenced by regional produce, a Latin American dad, an Italian mom, favorite Florida restaurant clichés, all-American junk foods and molecular gastronomy, among other things. Brunch choices include Cap’n Crunch pancakes, enhanced with house-candied cereal, condensed milk syrup and vanilla butter, or crunchy fried chicken and “foie-ffles” (delicate foie gras-enhanced waffles) with drizzles of molecular magically-smoked Vermont maple syrup, candied bacon, and an unlikely puddle of spicy ranch dip. At dinner, try General Tso’s oxtail or the even richer bone marrow that may have Latin accents, like vaca frita (Cuban “fried cow”) and sour orange, or Asian touches (kimchi and cilantro). As for produce, this is one eatery where the “local/seasonal” mantra isn’t supplemented by “simple.” Edible flower-garnished local heirloom tomatoes may look like an elegant caprese, but flavors are Thai: nuoc cham fish sauce, toasted peanuts, ginger, lime and house-grown micro herbs; the “cheese” is frozen coconut milk ice. For dessert, few resist the sweet-and-salty chocoholic “dirt cup” served in a flower pot: Nutella mousse topped with crumbled Oreo cookie/pretzel “dirt” and homemade gummy worms. A short wine list is anti-climactic, but the boutique bottles (largely from California and Europe) are well-chosen --- and drinkers who want to keep playing can always try a Tang mimosa.

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