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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Evergreen Restaurant Review: Chef and owner David Lutz, a CIA graduate, cut his teeth in San Francisco before moving to the Tahoe area and it shows. After stints at a few members-only joints in the area, Lutz opened his own shop. While other restaurants have tried and failed in this location, we hope Evergreen is here to stay. With an almond-wood-fueled grill and an innovative, seasonal American menu, Evergreen strikes a good balance of protein, starch and vegetable without seeming boring. (We think Lutz’s dietician wife may be bending her husband’s ear.) Lunch offers what might be the best falafel on the lake as well as a classic Southern-style pulled-pork sandwich. Innovative soups lead us to question the server for recipe tidbits. Dinners showcase in-season ingredients with aha!-style pairings: house-smoked chorizo complements grilled quail with potato hash and a tiny fried quail egg; baked mushroom and barley phyllo strudel shines alongside a truffle beet relish; and many a diner can be caught sucking a pork chop bone tableside. Take your time with the wine list---the staff is more than happy to help with creative selections.