F & B
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F & B Restaurant Review: First manager and then owner at now-closed Brasserie Le Coze, Fabrice Vergez and his life and business partner Cindy Brown opened F & B. It’s in a rustic stage-set of a space with décor that contrasts substantially from that of the modern high-rise residential tower in which it's located. Vergez has kept many of his signature dishes from the old spot, including the white bean soup laced with truffle oil, making good use of a now-overused ingredient. There's the favorite steak tartare, too, made from beef tenderloin. Skate wing, roasted and served with brown butter and capers, is another dish that Vergez's team made into an Atlanta staple. Longtime Atlanta chef Philippe Haddad took over the kitchen and has added touches from his native Belgium to the line-up. The always-popular mussels, cooked either in the F & B style (white wine, garlic and herbs) or Hoegaarden beer, Thai coconut milk, or Mediterranean style (tomato), are his hallmark at lunch. Rabbit is braised Belgian style in dark beer, and the venison osso buco with juniper berries offers another cold-weather comfort dish that has Belgian antecedents. For dessert, crème brûlée with fresh berries gets it done. The wine list is a gathering of fine value choices from France and elsewhere, served at proper temperatures.