F & B
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F & B Restaurant Review: Fabrice Vergez emerged in Atlanta as manager and then owner at Brasserie Le Coze. He then moved to a new downtown building with FAB Atlanta, with his life and business partner Cindy Brown. Missing Buckhead, the pair returned to the neighborhood with F & B, situated in a rustic stage-set of a space in a modern high-rise residential tower. Vergez introduced Atlanta to white bean soup laced with truffle oil, making good use of a now-overused ingredient. Skate wing, roasted and served with brown butter and capers, is another dish that Vergez's team made into an Atlanta staple. Mussels in white wine, garlic and shallots, with their sweet plumpness and fragrant broth, pair beautifully with crusty bread, while loup de mer comes simply sautéed and served atop fragrant vegetables. Beer-braised chicken legs, cooked in Terrapin IPA from Athens, Ga., are a noble substitute for coq au vin. For dessert, consider the chocolate pot de crème, although we would dispense with its mound of whipped cream finish. The wine list is a gathering of fine value choices from France and elsewhere, served at proper temperatures.