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Fat Hen Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Fred Neuville’s Fat Hen resembles a house, but was built several years ago to be a restaurant. The southeastern American menu shows a bit of a French accent. Soul-satisfying meatloaf, better than Mom’s, comes with red-eye gravy. Delicate flounder niçoise is made more substantial by its bed of smoky bacon-cheese grits, and a pork chop gets extra dimension by being napped in a Calvados sauce and heft from silky-smooth collards. Barbecue brisket is moist, tender and straightforward. If those dishes don’t appeal, there’s fried seafood --- flounder, oysters, shrimp and scallops --- and a limited steak menu. Desserts include a “pluff mudd pie” of chocolate silk mousse in an Oreo crust, served with strawberries and Chantilly cream. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are also available. The wine list offers a range of new-world and old-world selections, many from boutique producers. Fat Hen is a sought-after spot for families vacationing on Kiawah and Seabrook Islands.