A Savory Walk in the
Basque Country
Between
the Adour River in Southwestern France and the Bidassoa River in Northern
Spain, Basque country is characterized by a
rugged landscape of mountains and plains,
lapped by the tumultuous Atlantic. Basque
cuisine, which is steeped in the culinary
traditions of the local shepherds, peasants and
sailors, is indeed representative of this
dramatic region. An ancient, very difficult
language and a rough topography may have shut
this region away from the rest of the world,
but it is still host to many travelers and
tourists due to its location and cuisine.
Basque cuisine is known for its use of a
garnish made of tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers
and spices—also known as "à la
basquaise"—as well as its mastery in the use of
cold cuts, notably pork. Ham, bacon and boudin
(blood sausage) are essentials in Basque
cuisine, and it seems that the fava beans,
cabbages, garlic and peppers often used in it
are only grown to complement the
meats. Here are some of the best tables of
this area:
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Les Rosiers |
Les Rosiers
32, avenue Beau-Soleil, 64200
Biarritz
Tel: 05 59 23 13 68
Award-winning female chef Andrée Rosier started
up Les Rosiers in a Basque mansion near the
Hippodrome des Fleurs at Biarritz with her
husband, Stéphane. The
restaurant is fronted with classic red
shutters, with a comfortable yet sophisticated
dining room inside. The daughter of a farming
family in lower Navarra, Andrée dreamt of being
a chef since childhood. During her time in the
countryside, she studied herbs, berries and
honey in order to get back to her Basque roots
from which her passion for cooking originates.
It was, however, with Jean-Marie Gauthier from
Biarritz's legendary
Hôtel du Palais, that Andrée's passion took
flight. The menu is mouthwatering: the subtle
flavors of langoustine with a shellfish gelée
and creamed zucchini with peppered mint
contrast well with the distinct, yet simple
pigeon breast, cuisses confites, toast
d'abattis and rosemary-encrusted potatoes. A
modest, yet promising beginning for the young
chef—with prices to match.
Ahizpak
13, avenue Verdun, 64200 Biarritz
Tel: 05 59 22 09 26
Opened in the center of Biarritz by three
sisters, Ahizpak (Basque for "the sisters") is
never empty. One of the sisters, Yenopha,
worked at super-chef
Michel Guérard's, where she mastered the
art of preparing filet of pork accompanied by
julienne of ham. Basque cuisine is one that
allows all sorts of variations, even though
it's steeped in centuries of
tradition.
L'Auberge Basque
4310 Helbarron, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle
Tel: 05 59 51 70 00
At Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle in the Atlantic
Pyrenees, Cédric Béchade, whose work with Jean
Michel Gauthier brought out his love for the
Basque country more than a decade ago, presides
over a very sophisticated and contemporary
eatery called L'Auberge Basque. Elegant,
refined, and generous, his style of cooking is
inspired by the region—his pork, eggs piperade
(a kind of omelette with tomatoes and peppers)
and cod are favorites of the local Basque
population all the way to Bilbao.
El Kano
Getaria, Herrerieta 2 (Spain)
Tel: (+34) 943 14 06 14
A trip to Basque country isn't complete without
visiting the Pedro Arregui's El Kano in
Getaria, a small fishing port on the other side
of the Pyrenees a little ways from San
Sebastian. The hake (joues de colin) there are
first served poached, and then roasted, so as
to bring out their silky and gelatinous
texture. The grilled chipirones (squid) are
accompanied by an onion jelly and served with a
line of their ink. Also to
be found on the menu are stuffed spider-crab
(txangurro relleno) and the large flatfish of
the day, cooked on the bone.
Anne Rozès (Cannery)
Chemin de Pedegain, 64990 Lahonce
Tel: 05 59 31 56 09
Christian Parra's famous Basque boudin, which
used to be served at the Auberge de la Galupe,
has made a grand return thanks to Anne Rozès'
cannery in Lahonce in the Atlantic
Pyrenees. The recipe belonged to chef
Parra's grandmother, and it calls for the pork
innards to cook together with sliced leeks,
onions, fresh thyme and finely chopped parsley.
Pork rinds are added, after which the pudding
is cut up and seasoned with four types of
spices and Espelette peppers. Frank Rozès
directs this boutique cannery, where six
workers specialize in the making of this Basque
masterpiece, as well as that of a pâté of pork
rinds—also made by Parra.
IN
PARIS:
Ferme Saint-Hubert (Henry
Voy)
36, rue Rochechouart, 75009 Paris
Tel: 01 45 53 15 77
Traditional
Basque products can already be found in many
bistros in Paris, such as
La Marlotte and L'Evasion, and now, at
Henry Voy's La Ferme Saint-Hubert as
well—located on rue Rochechouart in Paris' 9th
arrondissement. Basque cheeses are available
here among a selection of a hundred French (and
English) cheeses, as well as a famous type of
Camembert made from fresh milk. The milk
happens to be brought directly from farm every
Friday ensuring its freshness – something which
can only happen in Paris.
Pierre
Oteiza
18, boulevard Saint Michel, 75006
Paris
Tel: 01 43 25 59 01
The French capital is also privileged to have a
Pierre Oteiza delicatessen in the 6th
arrondissement. Oteiza hails from the valley of
the Aldudes in Basque country, and his meats,
sausages, andouilles and pâté de palombes – a
palombe being a breed of pigeon that migrates
from Northern Europe to Spain–are unrivalled in
quality and taste.
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