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Frank Papa's Ristorante Restaurant Review: Before kale chips were all the rage, Frank Papa’s was flash-frying escarole to a shattering crispness. It’s been ahead of other trends too: its primi course is full of Italian-style small plates like crostini with goat cheese, carpaccio of peppered tenderloin, and sautéed shrimp in white wine and garlic. Pastas come in a couple of dozen varieties, sauced appropriately to match the shape, including whole-wheat options like penne with sun-dried tomatoes and pine nuts, topped with fresh mozzarella and basil. Veal alla Diana, named for Frank's wife and co-proprietor who runs the front of the house, sports brown mushrooms, a little basil and tomato in a classic brown sauce. Check out the chocolate ravioli for dessert. The 200-bottle wine list includes some unfamiliar, but fine and moderately priced, labels. The restaurant’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it suburban façade gives no hint of the white-tablecloth service within, where the pale walls and simple décor remind us of similar spots in Northern Italy. To ensure your share of the trademark mussels diavolo in tomato sauce generously pumped up with garlic and red pepper, be sure to make a reservation.