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Galatoire's Restaurant Review: Galatoire's keeps the faith with early twentieth-century fine dining as rooted in classic Creole cuisine, so menu trends are shunned and tradition revered in the elegant, clubby atmosphere. A trio of rooms on the second floor adds dining space, but regulars prefer the undeniable charms of the ground-floor area, which does not accept reservations. (They are accepted for the second floor.) Downstairs, opposing mirror panels embellish the sidewalls, appointed with glittering brass fixtures. We can't imagine beginning a meal without the goutte or the grand goutte, palate-stimulating samplers of the shrimp rémoulade, crab meat maison and shrimp maison, sized to fit your table's head count. Fried oysters and bacon en brochette, sautéed fish lavished with seasoned crab meat, and lightly charred lamb chops still reign on the white-linen tablecloths. Soufflé potatoes are a must. It all ends delightfully with a soothing caramel cup custard or a mocha panna cotta. The noise level can become rather elevated as the evening wears on, when bittersweet Sazerac and old-fashioned cocktails fuel much of the energy. The revamped wine list is diverse, well-managed and caters to all price points. It is complex, and tailor-made for oenophiles. But rest easy --- the well-trained servers can always find the right pairings.