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Galvin La Chapelle Restaurant Review: This is a restaurant that has everything right. The setting is striking---it’s in St Botolph’s Hall, once a church hall, then a girl’s school. The vaulted ceiling soars above you, light streams from the windows, there’s a spectacular glass and steel staircase up to the private dining Gallery and acres of space taken up with crisply laid tables. And, of course, there’s that Galvin cooking, that deceptively simple style that relies on fresh ingredients and skill, and takes solid bistro fare and adds modern touches. Start with lasagna of crab with a chanterelles velouté, a salad of vegetables cooked over wood with walnuts and goat’s cheese or terrine of foie gras and leeks with a truffle vinaigrette. Move on to wild sea bass with spinach, salsify and a crunchy pine nut and raisin dressing, or thoroughly satisfying venison with red cabbage and black currant sauce. Leave room for rhum baba with Chantilly cream or chilled chocolate fondant with banana yoghurt ice cream and honeycomb. The restaurant is named after the great Hermitage La Chapelle wine, and you can drink that if the sky’s the limit. The wine list is good, with emphasis on the top end. There’s also a 3-course £24.50 lunch menu which must join the great food-fair price category. For those City bankers---or mere mortals---who need a meal at an odd time, there’s the Café de Luxe, a modern addition, open all day. How do those Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, do it?