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1601 Collins Ave. (16th St.) Send to Phone

Dinner Tues.-Sun.
Open late

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gaucho Room Restaurant Review

: In one of the towers of the enormous Loews Miami Beach Hotel, the Gaucho Room is luxurious in a suburban sort of way: not sleek (but contemporary), not exactly tasteful (but elegant nevertheless), and not very South Beach at all (sorta refreshing). Massive faux cowhide prints upholster the many overstuffed banquettes, and the room is so dim that the servers deliver tiny flashlights along with menus. The pianist in the adjacent lounge belts out schmaltzy wedding reception tunes that can be heard throughout the restaurant. The menu reads like a robust steakhouse of the Americas, with emphasis placed on choice selections of possibly every meat imaginable, and the warm, earthy aroma of smoldering wood permeates the entire restaurant. Much to our disappointment, though, chef Frank Randazzo's cooking style falls short of the bravado we would expect from such a bold menu and environment. Asian ingredients in Randazzo's quest for Zen minimalism weaken too many dishes, while some have distinct Asian overtones not so relevant to the style of the restaurant. Steaks and meats are sadly disappointing, as Randazzo strives to shed his Argentine steakhouse image in what seems to be his quest to be considered a progressive and eclectic chef. We can't imagine anything more progressive or diverse than an imaginative spin on a South American steakhouse, and wish the talented chef would rethink his approach. Randazzo's ways with seafood are exceptional, and his flair for pairing flavors is apparent, but somehow we don't expect this precious style of cooking from this brazen a place. As good as it is, we're still yearning for that high-end steakhouse of the Americas. We have yet to find it.


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