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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Green T. House Restaurant Review: There’s no doubt about it: Green T. House is over the top, but visitors to Beijing who enjoy wacky pretentiousness will like it. A tall white cage filled with snow-colored canaries stands at one end, their tweeting mournfully accompanying the cellist who appears to strain through serious Bach fugues. Food is served on a long central bench topped by a mirror while diners sit on black wooden chairs, the backs rising 3m or so in the air while candles swing from the rafters. The menu is designed as a crumpled rag and includes such flowery language as “tingling on sun-bathing semi-sashimi salmon”---which is actually pretty good. Chopsticks are an unwieldy foot long and many of the dishes, which are on oversize plates, come garnished with twigs and leaves. The service is a bit schoolgirl-ish and while the appetizers and desserts are hit-and-miss (stick with the Green T. ice cream and you’ll be alright) the main dishes are spot-on. Miso roast black cod is light and moist while the beef tenderloin is infused with a lemon grass tang. As one would expect, there are plenty of seasonal Chinese green teas, including house blends.