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Hapa Restaurant Review: This hip sushi place is one of Denver’s hottest Japanese eateries. The décor is straight up chrome and glass. The chic saké bar and the wraparound sushi bar draw expensively but casually dressed young professionals. Expect a wait, especially on weekends. For starters, the miso soup is rich and tasty as are the salmon shiitake dumplings served over barely wilted greens with a shiitake cream sauce. Other starters include seared beef tataki with a jalapeño-ponzu dipping sauce and green-lipped mussels broiled in a Japanese aïoli. But sushi is the main event here, and it is worth the trip. The menu is divided into beginner, intermediate and advanced sushi rolls. Beginner rolls---mild and made without the sinus-clearing wasabi---include a basic white tuna roll and various vegetarian rolls. Intermediate choices include a savory salmon skin roll and a spicy yellowtail roll with avocado. The advanced menu is a little over the top with cutely named items like the tootsie roll (eel, cucumber and cream cheese) and the foreplay roll (a California roll wrapped in salmon). Service is indifferent at best but it is the fresh and imaginatively prepared sushi that keeps diners coming back.