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Holy Cow Restaurant Review: Occupying an unexpectedly pretty, airy space filled with sunlight, blond woods and bright colors, this gourmet-burger joint has got the goods to match. Standing tall on locally baked buns, the thick patties of grass-fed beef are as juicy as they look. And though the toppings are par for the course --- various cheeses, sautéed onions and mushrooms, roasted red peppers, green chiles and pecan wood-smoked bacon --- they’re no less welcome for that. (We’d put the miso aïoli on anything, not just the grilled eggplant “patty” for vegetarians.) The rest of the menu is short but sufficient, composed of a few non-beef-based sandwiches, salads and fresh sides like log-cut Parmesan-zucchini fries. The wine-and-beer selection is fine if one-upped by the smooth milkshakes --- the kind that don’t clog your straw --- topped with whipped cream. They double, of course, as dessert, something Holy Cow doesn’t otherwise serve.