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Horseradish Grill Restaurant Review: In 1995, Steve Alterman purchased the former Red Barn Inn and the Johnson Studio transformed it into a bright, light-filled space set off by wood, stone and modern art. It was once a horse barn, but the stalls today hold banquettes. Influenced by the late Edna Lewis, who with Scott Peacock did a brief turn at the helm, the fried chicken continues to be made following her recipe. Formerly in the kitchen, David Berry is back after a long hiatus away from the culinary world, and the Carolina barbecue has returned, too. Other longtime signature dishes include the barbecue appetizer and shrimp and grits, the latter appearing as a main dish at lunch. We suggest the duck breast and leg confit and the pan-sautéed redfish. Each is accompanied by classic Southern sides, from collard greens to Carolina rice "middlins." Desserts are legendary, such as a Kentucky oatmeal cake with house-made caramel ice cream, although sweet potato crème brûlée exhibits a regional twist to a French classic. The wine list leans heavily on California selections, and Napa Valley chiefly, and offers some good choices by the glass, but generally does not create excitement; despite the Southern provenance of the food, it proposes not a single Georgia or other Southern option.