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Horseradish Grill Restaurant Review: In 1995 Steve Alterman purchased the former Red Barn Inn, a classic Atlanta restaurant across from Chastain Park, and the Johnson Studio transformed it into a bright, light-filled space set off by wood, stone and modern art. After nearly 20 years, Horseradish Grill has itself become a classic. Influenced by the late Edna Lewis, who with Scott Peacock did a brief turn at the helm, the fried chicken continues to be made following her recipe. Biscuits are crafted with lard, and it shows in their crisp texture. Other longtime signature dishes include the barbecue appetizer and shrimp and grits, the latter appearing as a main dish at lunch. David Berry is back in the kitchen after a long hiatus away from the culinary world, and the Carolina barbecue is back, too. Meanwhile, fresh flounder and cornmeal-crusted trout are worthy main dish fare. Desserts are legendary, such as a Kentucky oatmeal cake with house-made caramel ice cream. The wine list leans heavily on California selections and offers some good choices by the glass, but generally does not create excitement; despite the Southern provenance of the food, it offers not a single Georgia or other Southern option.