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Horseradish Grill Restaurant Review: Longtime restaurateur Steve Alterman purchased the former Red Barn Inn in 1995, and Atlanta’s premier restaurant design firm, Johnson Studio, transformed it into a bright, light-filled space set off by wood, stone and modern art. It was once a horse barn, but the stalls today hold banquettes. The late Edna Lewis once held kitchen court here, along with her sidekick, Scott Peacock. Today, Alex Castro, who practically grew up in this kitchen, helms the enterprise. Longtime signature dishes include the barbecue appetizer and shrimp and grits, both the handiwork of former executive chef Dave Berry. We suggest the duck breast and leg confit at dinner and the country-fried steak at lunch. Look for the latter on the blue plate special list. Classic Southern sides include braised mixed greens and squash casserole. Desserts are legendary, such as a Kentucky oatmeal cake, seasonal fruit cobblers or frosted red velvet layer cake. The wine list leans heavily on California selections --- Napa Valley chiefly --- and offers some good choices by the glass, but generally does not create excitement; despite the Southern provenance of the food, it proposes not a single Georgia or other Southern option. Beers and good spirits also are available. The generous garden out back provides much of the kitchen’s produce, from tomatoes to strawberries as the season permits.