THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Icarus

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Icarus Restaurant Review:

THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED It has been over a quarter century since Chris Douglass turned Icarus into one of Boston's premiere destination restaurants---and between its South End style and its savvy contemporary cuisine, it's still worth a whirl. In a mood-lit room that's half-hunting lodge, half-jazz club, couples gaze at each other from across dark wooden booths and relish a vibe that hasn't changed much with the times. Similarly, the menu's creations have a polished veneer that points to a seasoned chef who established his culinary identity long ago. Case in point: a signature appetizer of grilled shrimp with mango and jalapeño sorbet; as simple as it sounds, its sheer icy-spicy juiciness is a thrill. Indeed, balance---between strong and subtle, sweet and savory, and so on---is a hallmark of both Douglass’s and chef de cuisine Bill Flumerfelt’s cooking style, which nods to numerous styles of cookery: while Spanish polish permeates grilled swordfish, suave with sherry-almond sauce alongside chorizo-stuffed piquillo peppers, Middle Eastern accents headily perfume roast lamb---pomegranate and pistachio and preserved lemon. Though lack of choice dampens our enthusiasm about dessert, we admit the molten chocolate soufflé cake for two is the stuff of many a special occasion. Never mind if you didn't come for one---the thoughtful wine list alone warrants celebration.