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J. Sheekey Restaurant Review: J. Sheekey has, it seems, been around forever, defying the march of time and remaining one of London's favorite fish restaurants. Lunch is less frantic than dinner when, from the moment the doorman lets you in, you're swept into a theatrical hubbub where the rich, famous and celebrity clientele gather. Fish is flappingly fresh and treated with the simple respect it deserves: seared scallops with spiced carrot mash, crisp bacon and devil sauce; herb-roasted bream; pan-fried sole with lemon buttered shrimps, and that favorite Sheekey’s fish pie. Save room for desserts: perhaps a classic Bramley apple pie with clotted ice cream or Scandinavian iced berries with hot white chocolate. It’s traditional food taken to a new level. Not just the history but everything about Sheekey is so polished it generates a satisfied glow. The equally popular J. Sheekey Oyster Bar next door is worth a visit for a more casual experience. Set 3-course lunch Sat.-Sun. £26.50.