Named for a small fishing village on the Aegean Sea, Kokkari is owned by the same partnership that runs the successful Evvia Estiatorio restaurant in Palo Alto. The impressive multimillion-dollar design presents a large welcoming fireplace, lots of wood and pottery and floor lamps that lend a sophisticated, intimate look. One homey feature is a 20-foot-long family table near the semi-open kitchen. Chef Erik Cosselmon (formerly of Cetrella and Rose Pistola) has added his own Mediterranean flair to the very Greek menu. A simple appetizer of Greek feta cheese served up with mixed olives, extra virgin olive oil and oregano sings the flavors of the region beautifully. Dolmades, stuffed grape leaves, are also delicious with their savory mix of rice, currants and pine nuts. For entrées, the best choice for cozying up to the fireplace would be the rich and comforting moussaka, a casserole of eggplant, lamb and velvety bechamel sauce. The mesquite grilled pork chop arrives with tender goat cheese dumplings. Even if you skip dessert, don't miss the coffee served Greek-style.
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