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Kyma Restaurant Review: White tablecloth service and a casual feel, a wall of broken plates (a tribute to Greek culture) and a ceiling of twinkling stars set the authentic ambience. Savannah-born and -reared owner Pano Karatassos placed Kyma, his paean to his immigrant parents’ native land, in the very capable hands of his son Pano Jr., its executive chef. Selections include lavraki (branzino or sea bass) among those items flown in from Greece, as well as other pristine fresh fish from other sources, including the U.S. and Europe. A whole fish weighing 1 1/4 pounds is enough for two people with vegetable sides. These are grilled on the bone for maximum flavor and juiciness. Other fish specialties, including some shellfish, plus chicken, lamb and beef round out the main plates. But there's a lighter way to dine. The small-plates menu stars vegetables and grilled fare, such as grilled octopus. We also like the eggplant stew and the huge fava-like beans cooked to the melting state. For dessert, there’s Greek yogurt with honey, the Greek donuts or the custard tart, enfolded in flaky phyllo. Adventurous oenophiles revel in the Greek wines on the list but the Santorini is the best, especially with the fish.