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Kyma Restaurant Review: A wall of broken plates (a tribute to Greek culture), a blue-and-white color scheme, and a ceiling of twinkling stars set the authentic ambience. Savannah-born and -reared owner Pano Karatassos placed Kyma, his paean to his immigrant parents’ native land, in the very capable hands of his son Pano Jr., its executive chef. Selections include lavraki (branzino or sea bass) among those sea dwellers flown in from Greece, as well as other pristine fresh fish from other sources. A whole fish is expensive, but even at 3/4 pound, it's enough for two people with vegetable sides. Other fish specialties, including some shellfish, plus chicken, lamb and beef, round out the main plates. Olive oil-poached halibut is a special dish, but it should be cooked a mite less than ours was. The olive oil, though, is so delicious it literally seasoned the fish. But there's a lighter way to dine. Small plates star vegetables and grilled fare. We like the eggplant stew and the huge fava-like beans cooked to the melting state. Lobster pastitsio is uncommonly rich, and veal sweetbreads present four crisply fried crumbed morsels on a tiny dice of mixed vegetables. For dessert, there’s Greek yogurt with honey, the Greek donuts or the custard tart, enfolded in flaky phyllo. Adventurous oenophiles revel in the Greek wines but the Santorini rocks, especially with the fish.