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Lan's Vietnamese Cuisine Restaurant Review: You’ll have to wait until closing time to glimpse a smile from Lan, the proprietor of her eponymous Vietnamese restaurant. Lan’s diminutive frame is barely visible over the kitchen counter, although you may catch her scowling at her servers and scolding them for asymmetrically folded napkins. Granted, the revolving door service is spotty, but Lan is a constant, and her food is consistently good. Her intense energy is transmuted into lovely authentic fare, including brightly spiced pho and delicate spring rolls herbed with mint from Lan’s own garden. Regulars like the lamb, especially the tender pan-seared variety. After the kitchen closes, Lan will come out and sit with any customers still lingering over the sweet dregs of young coconut drinks, a subtle smile spreading over her face as she asks whether the sour papaya in the bo nuong was sufficiently tart.