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Le Pigeon Restaurant Review: It’s not uncommon to see chef/owner Gabriel Rucker talking with diners as he wields his skillets and saucepans in this tiny storefront in a gentrifying area of busy East Burnside Avenue. His menu, which features local, organic and free-range ingredients, changes often, but the rich, tender beef cheek bourguignon is a standard. Other entrées may include such mild and palate-stretching items as pigeon heart fried rice; stuffed shells with ricotta, pancetta, tongue and heart; and tomato and tripe stew. Can't bear the offal? Try the fried cardoon: stuffed squash with chanterelles, corn, sage, artichokes and salsa verde. Rucker is big on foie gras, most notably his intriguing foie gras profiteroles for dessert. (Honey-bacon-apricot cornbread is a good substitute.) The wine list is appropriately varied to match the innovative fare and pours are generous. Five- and seven-course tasting menus provide a way to sample much of what the kitchen has to offer. The restaurant takes reservations for most seatings at two long communal tables, but the ten bar stools wrapping around the lively open kitchen are always first-come, first-served.