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Le Saint James Restaurant Review: Spontaneity and freedom. These are what Michel Portos has and what others do not always have--or, at least, not at the same time. He polishes his ideas until they approach perfection, guarding an almost childish freshness to create, for example, a carrot juice, which nourishes of crayfish and chanterelle mushrooms, for amuse-bouche topissime, which whets the appetite so much that one smilingly awaits the miracles to come. And they arrive. In the large camarone, rolled up around a sheet of romaine lettuce like a skewer, in the mano a mano of an Grefeuille allaiton lamb with tuna, anchovy and pea rectangles. And the sea-bream! Orientalized with the ras-el-hanout, with expertly-prepared vegetables (the textures are incredible) the sea-bream made us remember, by its powerful flavor, of Thousand and One Nights, the sardines that Wally made in his first restaurant on the île Saint Louis, twenty-five years ago. And that, it is Portos, respectful and generous. The service is run in this Zen attitude, which does not exclude standing; Richard Bernard carries out, with his two wine waiters, an exceptional cellar: Gauvy, Vaillé, Foucault, Germain, a history of fidelity: Saint-James is one of the most beautiful houses of France, illuminated by a major actor of today's kitchen.