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Lemaire Restaurant Review: After a trumpeted restaurant redo, The Jefferson Hotel unveiled Lemaire. Keeping the same name (an homage to Thomas Jefferson’s maître d’), it offers a contemporary centerpiece bar along with the airy, previously restored Conservatory overlooking Franklin Street, but its warren of dining rooms retains the elegance of crystal chandeliers and genteel molding befitting this venue. And though the refined décor still makes you want to sit up straight, the Southern-respecting menu is flexible and relaxed. Veteran chef Walter Bundy has fashioned categories such as “cold” (brandy peppercorn-dusted beef tartare, for one) and “hot” (such as bourbon braised Ayrshire Farms pork belly and Tidewater jumbo lump blue crab cake) that can be mixed and matched into any size repast. Entrées exude comfort as much from their creativity and components (maple-brined center cut pork loin chop with cider-braised red cabbage, raisins, Carolina rice “grits” and Shenandoah apple sauce) as their prices; nothing over $30 and some below $20. A foie gras sauce-anointed “Barnyard” burger with sunny-side up egg is as impressive as a burger gets. Lemaire’s “Virginia Green” certification shines through not just in a regional, seasonal consciousness, but right down to the mint in the ginger mojito hailing from The Jefferson’s own urban garden.