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Leon de Lyon Restaurant Review: Following in the footsteps of his father, whose name stretches along the restaurant's stained-glass façade, Jean-Paul Lacombe continues to celebrate the great culinary traditions Lyon is famous for. After all, no one should ever forget that this vital cuisine turns the humblest ingredients into noble dishes, and makes conservative cooking seem cheerful and refreshingly unstuffy. Time-honored regional favorites are still young at heart here, and the less-than-local dishes are authentically interpreted. The cuisine targets flavors and hits them on the mark, without a lot of fuss. Efficient service, and a full and focused cellar. Outstanding welcome from Fabienne Lacombe. Relais et Châteaux.